Crochet dolls are more than just toys, and this crochet ragdoll pattern is perfect for that little cutie in your life. Whether you’re new to crocheting or a seasoned pro, diving into the world of crochet doll patterns is an adventure worth taking!
There’s something truly magical about crochet dolls, especially a crochet ragdoll. Raggedy-Anne was my favourite book as a tiny tot, and that’s where my love affair with ragdolls started. Ragdolls have a way of capturing imaginations with their timeless appeal and endless personalisation options. Want a doll with bright blue hair? How about one dressed in a tiny superhero cape? With crochet, the only limit is your imagination!
My ragdoll pattern is a mix between a traditional ragdoll and an amigurumi doll. You lightly stuff the body, so it has some structure but not enough that it loses the ragdoll appeal. This crochet ragdoll pattern is also versatile, allowing you to customise your doll with cute details. Depending on the yarn you use, you can also make her bigger or smaller.
Crochet dolls aren’t just for kids—they’re for anyone who loves a bit of creativity and fun. They make thoughtful gifts, adorable decorations, and, of course, perfect playmates for little ones. Plus, making a crochet doll is a wonderful way to unwind, letting your hands create something beautiful as your mind relaxes.
So grab your yarn and hook, and let’s get started.
Mr – magic ring
sc – single crochet
inc – increase (make 2 single crochet in the same stitch)
inv dec – invisible decrease (insert your hook into the front loop only of two stitches, pull your yarn through both loops, yarn over, and pull through)
ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
ss – slip stitch
This pattern isn’t super tricky, but please don’t hesitate to email me if you want some help!
Don’t stuff the arms!! Fasten off after each arm and weave in the ends.
Round 1: 6 sc in a Mr (6)
Round 2 – Round 13: sc in each stitch around (6) {7 rounds}
Fasten off after the first leg and weave in ends. Don’t fasten off after the second leg.
Round 1: 6 sc in a Mr (6)
Round 2: [sc, inc] x 3 (9)
Round 3 – Round 20: sc in each stitch around (20) {18 rounds}
Fasten off and weave in ends after the first leg. Make your second leg. When you are finished with your second leg, you need to join the first and second legs. To do this, slip stitch from the second leg into the last stitch of the first leg. This is where you will place your stitch marker before starting round 21.
Round 21: sc around both legs until you get back to your stitch marker (20)
Lightly stuff as you go.
Round 22 – Round 30: sc in each stitch around (20)
We are going to attach the arms in Round 31. There are some photos to guide you through it.
Round 31: 5sc, 3sc through the stitches of the first arm, 7sc, 3 sc through the stitches of the second arm, 2sc (20)
Round 32: [2 sc, inv dec] x 5 (16)
Round 33: [sc, inv dec] x 5 (10)
Fasten off and weave in the ends. Finish stuffing the body.
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr (6)
Round 2: sc inc in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)
Round 4: [2 sc, inc] x 6 (24)
Fasten off after the first head piece but not after the second! Once you have completed the second head piece, put both pieces together with the “right sides” facing outwards. Then, single crochet the pieces together. Stuff very lightly before completing the final single crochets.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing onto the body.
Sew head onto the body by squeezing the open neck section of the body closed and sewing through the neck and head stitches.
Attach your yarn to the head. Chain 5 and slip stitch to the next stitch. Repeat around each round of the head until it is completely covered.
I placed my ss into one of the loops of each stitch rather than going through the whole stitch. The one doll has pretty simple hair. The other one has space buns. To make them, I just repeated the [ch 5, ss] sequence, but ss into the ch5 space. I did this until I had a “bun”
I made two versions of the dress so you can choose which one to make.
Ch 1’s don’t count as a stitch.
Row 1: Ch 18. Turn. (18)
Row 2: hdc in each chain across. Ch 1. Turn. (18)
Row 3: hdc in each stitch across. Ch 1. Turn. (18)
Row 4: hdc, ch3, skip 3, 9 hdc, ch 3, skip 3, 2 hdc. Ch 1. Turn. (18)
Row 5: hdc in each stitch across. Ch1. Turn. (18)
Row 6: [hdc; inc] x 9. Ch1. Turn. (27)
Row 7: [2 hdc; inc] x 9. Ch 1. Turn. (36)
Row 8 – Row 10: hdc in each stitch across. Ch 1. Turn. (36) {3 rows}
Row 11: [5 hdc in the same stitch, ss in the next] x 18.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Row 1: ch 17. Turn. (17)
Row 2: sc in the second chain and across. Ch 1. Turn. (16)
Row 3: sc across. Ch 1. Turn. (16)
Row 4: 3 sc, ch 4, skip 2, 6 sc, ch 4, skip 2, 3 sc. Ch 1. Turn. (20)
Row 5: [sc; inc] x 10. Ch 1. Turn. (30)
Row 6: [sc; inc] x 15. Ch 1. Turn. (45)
Row 7-9: sc in each stitch across. Ch 1. Turn (45) {3 rows}
Row 10: [sc; inv dec] x 15 (30)
Row 11: Sc twist stitch in each stitch around. Fasten off and weave in ends. (30)
Single Crochet Twist Stitch
This stitch begins like a single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop. There will be two loops on your hook, like in a normal single crochet. Now, twist your hook counterclockwise, twisting the two loops. Then yarn over and pull through the loops, completing your single crochet. (Tamara Kelly from Moogly has a helpful video tutorial)
Row 1: Ch 17. Turn. (17)
Row 2: Starting in the second chain from the hook, [5 hdc, ss] x 8. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing onto the top of the dress.
Sew the collar onto the top of the dress. Then, put the dress onto the doll and sew the sides at the back together. I also embroider eyes at the end. You can choose how to embroider them and where to place them. Mine are over rounds 2 and 3.
And that’s it! I can’t wait to see your crochet ragdoll.
If you’re looking for more easy (& free) crochet patterns, you might like my Dinofly or this cute Pocket Frog. I also have ad-free patterns available on Etsy.
Let's connect and crochet together!
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